With the holiday season just around the corner you might be considering that perfect and unique gift for a special person in your life. Ideally it should capture your vision, emotions and reflect your true feelings for them. It takes a talented team to create a custom piece of jewellery, but its significance will last a lifetime. A custom piece that says you understand that special someone’s distinct personality. By purchasing custom crafted jewellery, you are choosing to create a piece like no other, as unique as your holiday wishes and as unmistakable as the individual.

Contrary to popular belief, custom jewellery can be priced in-line with off-the-shelf jewellery, without the stigmatism of being designed to appeal to the mass market. By buying custom jewellery you’re effectively cutting out the middleman and capitalizing on the uniqueness of your gift and expressing your sentiment.

With your budget in mind, our skilled jewellers can achieve the desired options and features, leaving you 100% satisfied with your one of a kind custom holiday gift. Not to mention, you can save time and energy by creating a piece versus braving the crowds during the holiday season darting from one mall to the next looking for something that may not exist. For answers to all your specific questions, we encourage you to contact us directly.

Purchasing custom jewellery for someone special helps promote their unique sense of style and lends to a shared understanding for one another. We hope the following section will help improve your knowledge of the world of custom jewellery specific to Facet Cutting and Stone Setting in order to assist your finding just the right piece. Let us know if you would like us to add or research any additional jewellery cutting related terms.

Facet cutting diagramYour holiday Facet cutting specialists

Faceting is the most commonly understood cut. It is often made to transparent stones such as diamonds or precious gems and usually sports a highly symmetrical pattern. The surface of a diamond is often covered with several geometrically arranged, flat surfaces. The motive for faceting is to coax the brilliance from a gem. The gem itself is commonly faceted using a machine. The cutting angle is adjusted vertically via a protractor and rotationally via an index gear. The facets are then ground, sanded, and polished. Water or other specialised liquids can act as a coolant and lubricant to the process.


Common faceted shapes you can identify over the holidays:


kurtis-sales-round-cut-diamondRound or Brilliant Cut

Historically this has been the standard for all other gems. The Round or Brilliant Cut accounts for more than 75% of gems sold today. With a 58-facet cut, today’s conventions assess the proportions that yield the best combination of brightness, fire, scintillation, and pattern. The cut categories are divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base) which are measured and calibrated using a precise formula to achieve the maximum result.

kurtis-sales-oval-cut-diamondOval Cut

Created by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960’s, Oval Cut gems and diamonds are perfectly symmetrical and combine the sparkle of the elongated shape of a marquise cut with the round cut. Popular with women accompanied by small hands and short fingers the oval cut possesses the fire and brilliance of a round cut diamond which makes it an ideal choice for individuals who are attracted to round diamonds, but want something distinct.

kurtis-sales-marquis-cut-diamondMarquise Cut

An elongated shape with pointed ends, the Marquise Cut is a modification of the brilliant cut. It’s name is derived from the Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly had a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped smile. Due to their long and narrow shape, these stones give the illusion of greater size. Personal preference should dictate how narrow or fat of a marquise diamond you choose, although a length to width ratio of 1.75 – 2.15 is considered the classic marquise cut.

kurtis-sales-pear-cut-diamondPear Shaped or Teardrop Cut

The Pear Shaped Diamond is a combination cut of the round-brilliant and the marquise, it’s shape most resembles a sparkling teardrop. The pear shaped diamond lends a sophisticated air to both the simplest and most elaborate ring settings. When purchasing a pear shaped diamond, you should pay attention to quality and select the highest grade cut you can afford. Pear shaped diamonds are susceptible to a few cutting issues: the bow-tie effect and “high” or “uneven” shoulders. That said, it also belongs to the category of gem whose design most complements a hand with small or average-length fingers. It is particularly stunning when astride pendants or earrings.

kurtis-sales-heart-shape-cut-diamondHeart Shaped Cut

A unique and unmistakable symbol of love, this very unique cut is again a modification of the brilliant cut. This pear shaped gem with a cleft at the top is very popular in solitaire pendants as well as rings. Heart Shaped Diamonds come in a variety of silhouettes, from narrow to wide. Heart shaped diamonds of less than .50 carats may not be a good choice, as the heart shape is more difficult to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after they are set in claws. This is one of the reasons in which the skill of the cutter determines the beauty of the stone. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline.

kurtis-sales-emerald-cut-diamondEmerald Cut

Emerald Cuts are a class of diamond cuts that are known as “Step Cuts.” This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. It is known as a step cut because of its concentric broad, flat planes that resemble stair steps. Your average 1 carat emerald cut diamond has 5% greater surface area than a 1 carat round cut diamond. Only 3% of the diamonds in the world are emerald cut and are therefore among the most unique available. The Emerald Cut counts itself among the most venerable shapes and was made prominent by royalty and the upper-class.

kurtis-sales-princess-cut-diamondPrincess Cut

This square or rectangular cut with numerous sparkling facets is the second most popular cut shape for diamonds next to the brilliant cut. The square or rectangular crown shape entertains a profile or side that is similar to that of an inverted pyramid with four sloped sides. This trendy cut boasts a presence that is both elegant and dramatic. The Princess Cut finds its way into contemporary solitaire engagement rings. Flattering to a hand with long fingers, it is often embellished with triangular stones at its sides. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the gem’s depth in order to maximize brilliance.

Consider your stone settings over the holidays

Take into account the setting when considering your custom ring purchase over the holidays. Choosing the specific setting to be used is as important knowing the diamond that goes into the setting. One choice impacts the other plus the overall the aesthetic. Buyers who are purchasing a ring because they like a setting can often examine traditional diamonds specific to the setting or photos of other rings that resemble what they are looking to achieve. This way, they can be assured that they are choosing a diamond that stands out and is flattered by their setting of choice.

ring 4 claw stteing emptyClaw Setting

Because it draws the most attention to the stone the Claw Setting is by far the most common or classic of diamond settings. A claw is a little metal talon that grips the diamond tightly on one side, holding it in place. Claws are one of the most versatile types of settings because they can often accommodate stones of different sizes. Claws can be rounded, pointed, flat, or V-shaped. The V-shape type of claw is favoured today and is often used to clasp square diamond as the effect is very flattering when the claws are set onto the corners of the stone. This is because the V of the metal leaves plenty of room for the diamond to shine from nearly every angle.

One disadvantage of the claw setting is that is can get caught on clothing and other materials. Shorter claw sets can be a solution for more active or energetic lifestyles. Despite very few complaints, we recommend having your ring claws inspected from regularly to insure they have not loosened. For answers to all your specific questions, we encourage you to contact us directly.

BasketBasket Setting

A Basket Setting holds a cluster of stones within its claws and secures the gemstone in a basket shape. The setting may or may not be surround a larger center stone. The over all basket look is achieved when the outer claws of the surrounding stones sweep down to the finger bezel under the cluster. A crowd-pleasing choice, it optimizes the amount of light to pass through the gem, while keeping it set low.

kurtis-sales-bezel-settingBezel Setting

Bezel Settings are the second most popular setting. It’s achieved when the stone or diamond is surrounded by the bezel. The bezel is a thin metal rim custom-made to hold the stone tightly in place. Bezel settings can be full or partial. A full bezel surrounds the entire stone while a partial leaves the sides open.

kurtis-sales-channel-settingChannel Setting

The Channel Setting is a secure way to set especially smaller stones between two channels of precious metal. Since there are no claws, this setting is also a good option for a snag-free and secure design.

kurtis-sales-flush-setting copyFlush Setting

Also know as a Burnished Setting, a stone or stones set into the precious metal directly by countersinking holes into the ring and striking the metal around the jewellery to hold the stone in place. We should mention that this method is not suitable for softer gemstones as they could be damaged in the process. The edges around the stone itself are then polished. That said, it is a fashionable choice for wedding bands, especially men’s wedding bands.

kurtis-sales-milgrain-settingMilgrain Setting

Milgrain is an engraving type of embellishment added to rings giving them an “antique” look. The goal is to achieve an antique texture that captures specific time periods of jewellery fashion; examples include Art Deco, Rococo, or the Victorian era. This treatment provides a style to give custom rings an estate feel.

kurtis-sales-tension-settingTension Setting

Tension Setting is a classic approach to setting a stone held in place by tension of two pieces of precious metal. As a result the diamond appears suspended between the two sides of the shank. It is worth mentioning that tension-style settings feature a comparable look of diamond suspension but are less expensive and complicated to make.

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